Well, we’re in Albuquerque, waiting for the RV to be fixed.
NOTE: If you don’t want to read about our car troubles, skip down to where you see the *****, okay?
Apparently the RV doesn’t take well to the heat because ever since we’ve been in the south half of the country she’s given us plenty of trouble. Just before Austin the brakes started making a ridiculous grinding noise and stopped working well. We took it into a brake place, hoping that it was just the pads that needed to be replaced, but suspecting it would be the rotors needing to be shaved. We were surprised to find that the rotors had completely cracked and, the guys were surprised we could even stop at all. It’s hard to explain what this looked like, but if you’ve ever spun pottery on a wheel, built up a nice vase, and then taken the pointy tool and slowly stuck it into the side so that as the thing spins it slices off the top so you have two pieces. That’s what our rotor did. And since we drove like that for a few days, we made it worse and had to replace the calipers, too.
Then, we make it the rest of the way through Texas, into New Mexico, and up toward Albuquerque. About 75 miles or so out of town, as I’m driving, enjoying the New Mexico desert sunset, rocking out to the good ol’ Big Head Todd album I loved in high school, the radio stops working. Hmm, either my voice is bad enough for the forces of the universe to cause our stereo to spontaneously combust, or this is yet another little glitch we have to deal with, par for the course with Coachie.
But then, we pull into a gas station, and Ronny’s checking the oil, and we notice that the headlights are very, very dim. And then, the car won’t start. Crap. We get someone to jump start us, which obviously annoyed him completely, and we headed back out. Ten minutes later, the headlights are so dim that we can hardly see, the blinkers don’t work (which means no flashers), so we decided to exit and pull into the gas station that happened to be right there. Perfect timing, because just as we took the exit and turned toward the gas station, the RV started sputtering, we lost all electrical power – keep in mind it’s dark and we’re driving a big old heap with no horn to warn anyone coming toward us. (The brakes work splendidly, though!) We made it to the gas station and plugged in our battery charger for a couple of hours. After a little Family Guy, we thought we had enough juice to make it to Albuquerque, so we started her up and hit the road, lasting about a half an hour. I was sitting in the back reading when I heard Ronny say, “Oh, crap” and felt the lurching.
Luckily, just as the lights faded to a dim glow, an exit opened up for us. Unfortunately, it was the kind of single-lane, roundabout exit that goes up hill before joining another road which leads over the freeway and to the gas station. So we’re veering right, going around the vertical incline exit ramp, “I think I can, I think I can,” and the electric dies completely and the engine starts failing. Because there are now streetlamps and no light in the sky at all, I’m holding the flashlight out the window, attempting to light the way. The camper is choking and sputtering, making all kinds of crazy noises, going about 3 or 4 mph, and just as we come to the top of the hill and onto the road which crosses over the highway, the engine dies completely. Fortunately, there are no other cars on the road, and we make it to the top of the hill, just in time.
You know that feeling when you’re on a rollercoaster, after you’ve climbed a big hill and you’re sitting at the apex, awaiting the point where you start going down a big fast hill? Well, we had that same anticipation, only it wasn’t really exciting, it was more scary. Had anyone come up behind us, well…anyways.
So, the impetus of the RV kept us rolling just long enough to make it over the hill to the point that we could actually coast down hill, and, thankfully, there were no other cars on the road so we ran a stop sign and tumbled into the TA truck stop, where we somehow managed to coast to the other side of the parking lot and right into a parking space between two semis. Our momentum carried us just as far as we needed to go, and the wheels came to a stop about three feet from the wall at the edge of the lot. Our disaster could not have been any more perfectly orchestrated. Ronny and I looked at each other, relieved, and sighed, laughing. High Five? Ronny plugged the battery and charger into the gas stations outlet, right behind the ATM, and we charged it over night while we slept.
Needless to say, the following day (yesterday), was not one of our most fun days. For some reason, mechanics who want to work on a 1985 RV are few and far between, and those who will work on them, charge an arm and a leg, just because they can. So, the next few hours, when we should have been seeing the sights of Albuquerque, were spent in stress and the realization that we were going to drop another huge chunk of change into this huge (though lovable) hunk of junk.
Let it be known that I am entirely endeared to this camper of ours. I’ve never really been the type to see the silver lining in every cloud, but, even through all of the automotive crap we’ve dealt with along the way, I love our little Coachie. I think her problems are all part of her character. I mean, we bought a cheap, 25 year old camper, so I figured we’d be dealing with problems all along the way. Ronny, on the other hand, couldn’t be more frustrated with the thing. Oh well.
* * * * * *
So, anyways, enough about the camper. Here’s what we’ve been up to since I last wrote:
Wait, now I can’t really remember when I last updated this…was it in Savannah? New Orleans? Ever since we hit the south it has been so hot I can hardly stand it. New Orleans would have been cool if it were anything like I had expected New Orleans to be – Jazzy, eclectic, eccentric, amusing, interesting, cultural. But everything in the French Quarter had adapted to the Essence Festival that was in town, so every bar blasted hip-hop. I seriously felt like I was in a hot, humid, oceanless Spring Break 2009 music video. It sucked. And it was so hot and crowded, and the streets smelled like a combination of garbage, sewage and stale puke that walking the streets and peoplewatching wasn’t even really fun. At one point we decided to go to a gay nightclub just to get out of the crowd and into some air conditioning. The only thing that I really, truly enjoyed about New Orleans was watching big, fat, whooping African-American mamas trying to ride the mechanical bull at the Bourbon Cowboy bar. Wow…check that one off the bucket list!
Oh yeah, and we watched the 4th of July fireworks over the Mississippi River, off of the ‘dueling barges’. It was actually a very good show.
So, nothing monumental happened between New Orleans and Austin, unless you count crossing through hell, er, I mean Texas, in 110 degree heat with no air conditioning. We stopped in New Braunfels for a couple of days to ‘float the river’, which cooled us off for a couple of hours, and play in the free poker tournaments. This was funny – 50-60 people play in these tournaments. Free buy-ins and a guaranteed $50 bar tab to the winner! We checked out Greune and ate at the Gristmill – yummy – but couldn’t stay long because the generator no longer (temporarily) worked, and we had to leave the stinkpot panting and slobbering in the RV.
We headed north to Austin, where we had the aforementioned brake issues. This is where my brilliant husband hooked us up with a room at the Marriott two blocks from the center of nightlife, 6th street. Now, this is a suite-only hotel, with rooms starting going for $200-$400 a night, and a $100 “cleaning fee” for dogs. My dear, conniving husband, who can always talk his way out of any pickle and into a good deal, got us the $39 employee rate, plus, saved us the hundred dog bucks by saying the stinkpot was a service dog. So we stayed there two nights and checked out Austin.
I hate to say it, because Austin is one of the places we are/were considering moving to, but I was disappointed with the Live Music Capital of the World. (it’s not capitol, right?) Sixth Street, which is where everyone we had talked to had recommended, felt like another Rosarito. The street was lined with bar after bar after bar, which seemed great at first, but it seemed that all of the live music was played by cheesy cover bands. I had been expecting to see a lot of local bands who wrote their own music, playing out of dive bars and cafes with unique ambiance. I guess I was expecting more of the artsy type of stuff, with adults who love live music. Instead, where the has-been cover song playing bands played, there were few people hanging out. When we found the more crowded places, we realized that we were the oldest people in the bar, and we felt like we were watching an 8th grade dance where awkward and gawky 21-year olds attempted to dance as they sucked down their “$4 Big Boy Bud Lights”. We checked out a lot of different places, each with the subtle, though unmistakable odor of leftover barf, and wondered if this was the Austin that everyone’s always so excited about. Our second night we went to the Warehouse District where the crowd was a little more mature, and we had an awesome dinner before trying to see the bats that supposedly fly every night. Standing on the bridge we saw them swirl a little, but they by now means covered the sky like I had expected. Ronny went out to some cowboy bar with his friend Josh (who used to live in Temecula but now lives in New Braunfels) and I hunted down some live music, determined to find an original, indie rock band with some creative energy and talent. Stubbs, which was recommended to us had a $28 cover charge, so I decided to pass, and Emo’s had a $12 cover charge, which, just before I decided to pay it, sold out. Everywhere else that had no cover was either washed-out blues, cover bands, or electronica, which, according to a guy with heavy-lidded eyes and a nasal voice, “you had to be invited to and have already RSVP’d to even get in.” So I ended up paying 5 bucks to see some young 20-somethings in a punk/alternative/rock/cover band play semi-good music. To my relief, I wasn’t the oldest person in the bar; the band’s parents were there to support their kids!
In the morning, while we waited for the brakes to be finished, I went to a nice sweaty yoga class…thank goodness. I needed it badly. Though, I could have done without the teacher’s incessant jabbering about conch fritters and jet skis. Sheesh.
Next, figuring we had the time, we headed south to San Antonio, which my brother’s friend had said would be a shame to miss. The Riverwalk was a pleasant surprise; right in the middle of downtown a curvy river snakes, and along its banks restaurants and bars cover every square inch. It was lovely – though still hot – and beautiful, with the colorful lights reflecting off of the blackness of the water. We had some dinner and hit a couple of bars. At the Irish Pub a piano man kept us entertained, and then at the martini bar, Ronny, in an attempt to get something “not too girly”, ended up with a ‘flirtini’ straight out of Sex and the City.
After San Antonio, we were heading west, trying our darndest to get the heck out of the Texas heat. I drove for a while, and we were about 130 or so miles from El Paso. I was panting as hard as the dog, miserable, when, like an oasis, a sign saying “Carlsbad Caverns” with an arrow pointing north caught my eye. We filled the tank and said, Let’s get the F out of Texas!
We had to leave Kodi in the camper with the air conditioning (the generator miraculously started working again) while we went into the cave, because, when we attempted to put him into the kennel, he put up such a stink that Ronny and I together couldn’t force him into a cage. The Caverns were pretty cool, literally; underground was a nice 56 degrees, so we walked around and checked out the formations for an hour or so. We then hopped in the car and made our way to Albuquerque, where all the fun with the alternator began.
So here we are, Kodi and I sitting at a Starbucks, Ronny off somewhere taking a nap, and we’re waiting for the camper to get fixed. We’ll probably head north to Santa Fe this afternoon, and then we’re going to go toward the Grand Canyon for a few days.
It’s hard to believe that this trip is almost over. We’re on day 70-something, and, although it feels like we’ve been on the road forever, I feel like the adventure has just begun. I don’t really want to get back to the ‘real world’, but, it’s probably time to get back to work.
Oh, and by the way, the camera cable is in the car so I’ll have to upload some pictures later….Until next time….